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About Oiran fashion

2024年11月15日

This page will provide a detailed explanation about the photography service at the Oiran Photo Studio Ya-iro in Chiba.


This time, we will delve into the topic of "What is Oiran Fashion??"



The Beauty and Background of Oiran Fashion


During the Edo period, Oiran (high-ranking courtesans) were highly regarded women working in the Yoshiwara pleasure district, and their fashion and beauty became symbols of the era, attracting admiration. Oiran fashion was lavish and luxurious, and their attire, hairstyles, makeup, and movements required an exquisite beauty and dignity, distinct from everyday life. In this article, we will provide a detailed explanation of the various elements of Oiran fashion.





1. The Structure of the Oiran's Luxurious Kimono and Obi


The Beauty of Layered Kimono and Fabrics


The Oiran's kimono was among the most extravagant and luxurious garments of the time. Compared to those worn by ordinary people, these kimonos were made from thick, high-quality silk, and were characterized by multiple layers. This layering created a rich depth of color and pattern, giving the entire garment a three-dimensional effect. The kimono was designed to reveal different expressions depending on the light or viewing angle.


Patterns Representing the Four Seasons and Auspicious Motifs


The kimonos featured various patterns representing seasonal flowers and landscapes, such as plum blossoms, cherry blossoms, peonies, and chrysanthemums. Each plant symbolized the specific season, reflecting Japan’s unique elegance and aesthetic in each kimono. Auspicious motifs, such as phoenixes, cranes, and flowing water patterns, were also common. These designs signified the Oiran’s high status and contributed to the noble and refined atmosphere they exuded in the Yoshiwara district.


The Way the Obi Is Tied and Its Significance


The Oiran's obi (sash) was tied at the front, a distinct feature compared to how it was tied in regular kimonos. This front-tied obi signified the Oiran's professional identity. The obi was extremely long and wide, made from luxurious silk, often embroidered or woven with gold thread. The grandeur of the obi expressed the Oiran's high status and dignity, capturing attention and leaving a lasting impression.





2. The Oiran's Gorgeous Hairstyles and Hair Accessories


Shimada Mage: The Foundation of Oiran Hairstyles


The Oiran’s hairstyle was a complex and elegant work of art, different from that of common people. The base style was the “Shimada Mage,” which could be enhanced with variations such as the “Oiran Mage” and “Tachikami” to emphasize its splendor. The hair was styled to be high and voluminous, with sophisticated arrangements that highlighted the Oiran's grace.


Hair Accessories that Embellish the Seasons


The Oiran’s hair was decorated with various ornaments, such as combs and hairpins. These accessories were designed to match the seasons and had symbolic meanings. The hairpieces were often made of gold or lacquer and featured motifs like flowers, butterflies, and cranes. The number and size of the accessories symbolized the Oiran’s rank, with higher-ranking Oiran wearing larger, more extravagant decorations. These hair ornaments helped elevate their presence and reinforced their noble status in the district.





3. The Oiran's Makeup and Expression


The Contrast of White Powder and Red Lips


The Oiran’s makeup was designed to create an otherworldly beauty. First, a layer of white powder (oshirori) was applied to the face, creating a pale complexion that conveyed cleanliness and transparency. This was the ideal beauty standard of the time, as pale skin represented refinement. The eyes were accentuated with black and red eyeshadow, drawing attention and giving the eyes a dramatic appearance.


The lips were painted small and red, contrasting with the whiteness of the face, creating a seductive and elegant impression. This makeup style was a significant element that set the Oiran apart from ordinary women and emphasized their special status.





4. The High Geta (Footwear) and the "Soto-Yammonji" Walking Style


The Uniqueness of the High Geta


The Oiran's footwear, the “three-layered high geta,” was distinctive, with a significant height difference compared to regular zori or geta. These high geta were difficult to wear, requiring special skills to walk properly. The height of the geta accentuated the Oiran’s graceful movements, highlighting their dignity and presence.


The "Soto-Yammonji" Walking Style


The Oiran walked in a unique style called "Soto-Yammonji," where they would step outward in an '8' shape, walking slowly and with elegance. The hem of their kimono would gently drag along, adding to their refined appearance. This walking style helped the Oiran not only appear beautiful but also convey a sense of grace and authority.





5. The Symbolic Meaning of Oiran Fashion


The Symbol of Admiration in the Yoshiwara Pleasure District


Oiran fashion served as a symbol of status and prestige within the Yoshiwara district. As the highest-ranking courtesans, their appearance embodied an otherworldly beauty that attracted many visitors, who sought to catch a glimpse of these renowned women. The Oiran's attire and accessories were luxurious and unattainable for ordinary people, making them objects of admiration and aspiration for the common folk.


The Role of Fashion Leaders in Society


Oiran were not only admired within the pleasure district but also served as fashion leaders for the broader society. The Oiran's kimono, hairstyle, and makeup set trends, with townspeople often imitating their looks. Their fashion choices transcended mere beauty, symbolizing the culture and values of the Edo period.





6. Modern Influence and Re-evaluation of Oiran Style


The Revival of Oiran Culture and Its Use in Tourism


Even today, Oiran fashion is recognized as a symbol of traditional Japanese beauty. In popular tourist areas like Kyoto and Tokyo, services are offered where visitors can experience the Oiran style, which has become increasingly popular with both domestic and international tourists. The elegance and historical significance of Oiran attire are celebrated as a way to appreciate Japan's cultural beauty.


Oiran Fashion in Film, Theater, and Art


Oiran fashion frequently appears in films, theater, and art. Especially in works that portray traditional Japan, the Oiran’s kimono, makeup, and hairstyle are used as cultural symbols, effectively conveying the beauty and cultural heritage of Japan to the audience.



Oiran fashion was meticulously designed to pursue beauty and dignity through elaborate kimonos, obi, hairstyles, and unique walking styles. Their attire represented more than just clothing; it symbolized the aesthetic values of the Edo period and had a profound influence on the people of the time. Today, the Oiran continues to captivate people’s hearts as a representation of traditional Japanese beauty, transcending time and culture.





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