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About Oiran’s makeup [a symbol of Edo period aesthetics and culture]

2024年12月22日

The makeup of the courtesan, which has a vivid and colorful image. This page summarizes information about courtesan makeup.


Studio Hachiiro offers photoshoots of courtesan-themed photography.
We would be delighted if you could come and experience the shoot.
Please feel free to contact us via the LINE at the bottom right.



Courtesan Makeup: A Symbol of Edo Period Aesthetics and Culture



Introduction: The Courtesan and Her Aesthetic Consciousness



The courtesan, or "oiran," held a special position within the entertainment quarters of the Edo period. She was not merely a provider of sexual services but a cultural figure who excelled in the arts, education, and beauty. These women led the aesthetic tastes of the time, and their makeup was a symbol of their status and charm in the vibrant environment of the brothel.



Yoshiwara Brothel and the Courtesan as a Symbol of Beauty



Yoshiwara was the cultural and entertainment hub of the Edo period, where the courtesans were considered the epitome of "high-class beauty." Their makeup, hairstyles, and attire all worked in harmony to create a perfect image of beauty.



Chapter 1: The History and Background of Courtesan Makeup



The Origins of Makeup and Aesthetic Consciousness in the Edo Period



Japanese makeup culture developed from the Nara and Heian periods and reached its unique form during the Edo period. Courtesan makeup was not merely for beautification but embodied the ideal of beauty in that era.




The use of oshiroi (white powder) began among the aristocracy during the Heian period and later spread to the common people during the Edo period. However, courtesans applied it with a distinctive thickness and texture, covering not just the face but also the neck and back, giving their whole body a luminous white appearance.




The use of rouge was also an important aspect of highlighting a woman's beauty. Courtesans used particularly expensive rouge to color their lips and eyes with vibrant hues.



Cosmetics and Techniques of the Edo Period



Courtesans used the finest cosmetics of the time, made primarily from natural ingredients, which significantly influenced the outcome of their makeup.




Oshiroi was a paste made from lead white or rice flour, and applying it evenly required considerable skill. Rouge, made from safflower, was an expensive material, while ink was used to accentuate the eyebrows and eyes.



Chapter 2: The Specific Process of Courtesan Makeup



Application of Oshiroi and Its Symbolism



Oshiroi was the foundation of a courtesan's makeup, and there were strict rules for how it was applied. It had to be spread evenly from the face to the neck and back.




On the back, a design called "mitsu-mon" (three circles) was applied, drawing attention to the beauty of the nape of the neck. Oshiroi symbolized not just beauty, but also nobility and cleanliness.



Eye and Eyebrow Makeup: Expressing Alluring Charm



The eyes were particularly emphasized, as they were the key feature that defined a courtesan's appearance. By drawing long lines at the outer corners of the eyes, an alluring, cat-eye look was achieved. In addition to ink, rouge was also applied lightly to give the eyes a flush of color and vibrancy.




Eyebrows were drawn thick and round, creating a soft yet strong appearance, which balanced the overall facial expression.



Lips and Rouge: A Symbol of Seduction



The rouge applied to the lips was one of the most striking parts of the courtesan's makeup. Instead of coloring the entire lips, only the center of the upper and lower lips was painted, and then softly blended, creating a subtle yet seductive look. This contrast against the oshiroi accentuated the beauty of the lips.



Blush: Natural Rosiness



Blush was used to create a healthy flush, applied lightly to accentuate the whiteness of the oshiroi. It was applied modestly so as not to overshadow the vibrancy of the eyes and lips.



Chapter 3: The Cultural Significance of Courtesan Makeup



The Symbol of Beauty Ideals in Courtesan Makeup



Courtesan makeup was not only a form of beauty but also carried cultural and social significance. The white skin and bright rouge symbolized cleanliness and youth, embodying the ideal of beauty in Edo society.




The quality of the makeup and materials used served as an indicator of the courtesan's rank, with higher-ranking courtesans requiring more intricate makeup and attire.



Impact on Society and Impressions on Clients



The makeup of the courtesans left a powerful impression on the male clients who visited the brothels. Their makeup and attire were seen as a form of "performative art," which added to the allure of the entertainment district.



Chapter 4: The Influence and Reevaluation in Modern Times



Experiential Programs in Tourist Attractions



Today, courtesan experience programs have become popular in tourist destinations such as Kyoto and Tokyo. These programs not only involve makeup but also include costumes and hairstyles that recreate the glamour of the Edo period.



Application in Art and Performances



The courtesan's makeup style has also inspired modern art and performances. Elements of it have been incorporated into stage arts and fashion, blending traditional beauty with contemporary culture.



Conclusion: The Timeless Value of Courtesan Makeup



Courtesan makeup was not just an act of beauty but a comprehensive form of art that reflected social status and cultural background. Each technique carried deep meaning and history, making it an essential part of Edo period aesthetics that continues to influence modern culture.



By passing this tradition on to the future, we can not only preserve the beauty of the courtesan's makeup but also share the richness of the culture behind it.


Chapter 5: The Details of Courtesan Makeup Techniques



Types of Oshiroi and How to Choose Them



Oshiroi formed the foundation of the courtesan's makeup, and the type of material used and the technique for applying it greatly influenced the final result. There were primarily two types of oshiroi: high-quality lead white oshiroi and a safer rice flour-based version.



Formulating and Applying Oshiroi



The courtesan's personal makeup artist would mix the oshiroi according to her skin type and facial features. The balance of water and oil added was crucial, as it determined the smoothness and durability of the application.



Brushes or specialized sponges were used to spread the oshiroi evenly, and great care was taken to avoid unevenness. The final step involved lightly tapping the makeup into the skin to ensure it blended perfectly.



Techniques to Highlight the Back's Beauty



The back was considered a symbol of "sexiness," and special techniques were used to apply oshiroi. The "mitsu-mon" design, consisting of three unfinished circles on the back, stimulated the viewer's imagination.



This technique enhanced the whiteness of the back and the red lines, creating an artistic beauty that resembled a painting.



Special Techniques for Eye Makeup and Eyebrows



Eye makeup played a crucial role in defining the courtesan's overall appearance. Delicate lines drawn with ink, especially at the outer corners, created a seductive cat-eye effect.



Eyebrows were shaped with depth, rounded slightly to express both softness and strength, a popular design at the time.



Lips and Rouge Application



The rouge used for the lips was made from high-quality safflower, and the purest versions were characterized by vibrant color and gloss. The rouge was applied in the center of the lips and blended outward, creating a subtle but seductive effect.



There was a technique of layering the rouge to give depth and dimension to the lips. The contrast with the whiteness of the oshiroi accentuated the vivid color of the lips.



Chapter 6: The Philosophy and Cultural Significance Behind Courtesan Makeup



The Symbolic Meaning of Makeup and Social Status



Courtesan makeup played an essential role in expressing their social status and rank. The higher-ranking courtesans used more expensive materials and had more refined techniques applied to their makeup. Makeup functioned as a "badge" symbolizing their status.



The Role of Beauty in the Yoshiwara Brothel Culture



Yoshiwara was not only an entertainment venue but also a center for cultural exchange. There, the courtesan's makeup went beyond decoration and was considered an integral part of the culture, representing the peak of aesthetic beauty.



Particularly, the white oshiroi on the back, the alluring eye lines, and the rouge on the lips were all born from the pursuit of a "displayed beauty" that was a form of artistic expression.



Chapter 7: The Inheritance and Evolution of Courtesan Makeup in Modern Times



The Popularity of Courtesan Experience Programs in Tourism



Recently, tourist programs that allow visitors to experience courtesan makeup and attire have gained attention. Especially in Kyoto and Tokyo, tourists can wear courtesan outfits and have their makeup done, immersing themselves in the atmosphere of the Edo period.



These programs help visitors learn about Japanese culture and also function as a means of passing on the courtesan culture to the next generation.



Influence on Art and Fashion



Courtesan makeup has inspired the world of modern art and fashion. The bold colors and designs are featured in international fashion shows and makeup artistry.



In performing arts, such as Kabuki and Japanese dance, courtesan makeup is still recreated, and its beauty and symbolism are being reevaluated. Additionally, by incorporating modern twists, new styles that merge tradition and modernity are emerging.



Conclusion: Passing on the Courtesan Makeup Culture to the Future



Courtesan makeup represents the culmination of Edo-period beauty ideals and culture, and each step of its process is imbued with deep history and philosophy. The whiteness of the oshiroi, the vibrancy of the rouge, and the overall harmony of the look are "comprehensive arts" that have been passed down through generations.



Even today, the value of this art has not faded, and it is being revived in tourism and art. By passing this culture on to the future, we can not only preserve the beauty of the courtesan's makeup but also share the richness of Japanese culture with the world.




Take Beautiful Courtesan Photos at Hachiiro Studio in Chiba City, Chiba Prefecture!


If you'd like to take beautiful courtesan photos, please come for a photoshoot via this link!