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The hairpins (kanzashi) worn by oiran (courtesans) add a striking presence to their appearance. On this page, we have compiled information about the hairpins of oiran.

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The Yellow Item in the Oiran's Hair... The "Kanzashi"

The yellow hairpins (kanzashi) worn by oiran in their hair were important accessories symbolizing their status and beauty. These hairpins were not just decorative items but also represented the high rank, artistry, and splendor of the oiran culture. Among them, the yellow hairpins were particularly eye-catching and were often made from a very expensive material called "tortoiseshell."

The yellow hairpins were considered essential items for high-ranking courtesans in the pleasure quarters, expressing both extravagance and formality. The reason for their eye-catching golden color lies in the natural luster of the material used.

The Symbolic Meaning of the Yellow Hairpins

In Japan, the color yellow has long been associated with nobility and prosperity. Therefore, the yellow hairpins were not merely accessories but played a role in emphasizing the beauty and status of the oiran. Additionally, the opulence, size, and materials of the hairpins were important indicators of the oiran's rank and position within the pleasure quarters.

For example, while lower-ranking courtesans used wooden or lacquered hairpins, oiran typically used tortoiseshell or ivory hairpins. This difference was not just about the materials but also reflected their social status, the wealth of their clients, and the prestige of the pleasure quarters themselves.

The Design and Use of Yellow Hairpins

The yellow hairpins of oiran came in various designs. Some were simple in shape, while others featured intricate carvings and decorations. The decorations often included floral motifs, geometric patterns, and even inlaid metals or gemstones.

Beyond their decorative purpose, the hairpins also served a practical role in supporting the elaborate hairstyles of oiran. The hairstyles of oiran were luxurious and complex, requiring numerous hairpins and combs. The yellow hairpins stood out prominently, enhancing the overall beauty of the hairstyle.

What is Tortoiseshell?

Tortoiseshell, the primary material used for yellow hairpins, is a natural material made from the shells of hawksbill sea turtles. This high-end material was widely used not only for oiran hairpins but also for combs, tobacco pouches, and obidome (belt accessories) during the Edo period.

The most distinctive features of tortoiseshell are its luster and patterns. It comes in a range of colors, from golden yellow to translucent amber, and its appearance changes depending on the viewing angle. This natural beauty is difficult to replicate artificially, which is one reason why tortoiseshell products are considered luxurious.

The Crafting Process of Tortoiseshell

Creating tortoiseshell products from hawksbill turtle shells involves the following steps:

• Material Selection: The shell of the hawksbill turtle is divided into the carapace (back shell) and plastron (belly shell). The carapace has unique striped patterns, making it suitable for decorative items, while the plastron is more transparent and ideal for delicate crafts.


• Heat Processing: Tortoiseshell becomes soft when heated, allowing it to be shaped freely. This property is used to create intricate shapes for hairpins and combs.


• Carving and Finishing: The surface is carved and polished to bring out its beautiful luster and patterns.

The Value of Tortoiseshell as a Luxury Item

During the Edo period, tortoiseshell products were extremely expensive. Nagasaki, in particular, was famous as a center for tortoiseshell craftsmanship, with shells imported from Southeast Asia and processed in Japan. The combination of imported materials and artisan skills made tortoiseshell products highly prized by the wealthy and high-ranking oiran.

Additionally, each tortoiseshell hairpin was handmade by artisans, meaning no two pieces were exactly alike. This uniqueness further enhanced the rarity and value of tortoiseshell products.

The Modern Significance of Tortoiseshell Hairpins

Today, tortoiseshell products are regulated under the Washington Convention, making it difficult to obtain new hawksbill turtle shells. As a result, tortoiseshell hairpins are treated as antiques or traditional crafts, with pieces from the Edo and Meiji periods holding particularly high artistic value.

In modern times, resin-based hairpins and accessories mimicking tortoiseshell have become popular, allowing people to experience the designs and culture of the past in a more accessible way.

Summary

The yellow hairpins of oiran were iconic items symbolizing their elegance and nobility, often made from luxurious tortoiseshell. Tortoiseshell, with its beautiful luster and versatility, was highly valued as a premium material throughout the Edo period.

By understanding the beauty and formality embodied in the yellow hairpins, as well as the historical background of tortoiseshell, we can appreciate the depth of oiran culture and Japanese traditional craftsmanship. These items are not just accessories but also cultural and technical masterpieces that continue to convey their value to the modern world.